Reframing Children’s Dress in Late Qing China: Historiographical Trends and an Image-Based Morphological Framework
Abstract
Children’s clothing occupies only a minor place in studies of Chinese dress, despite marked changes in material and social life that accompanied warfare, foreign intervention, treaty-port growth and administrative reform during the late Qing (1840–1911). This study reviews how scholarship has represented children’s dress, assesses recurring evidentiary problems and develops a morphological approach suited to published images. Searches covered the China National Knowledge Infrastructure (CNKI), Wanfang Data, the Web of Science Core Collection and Scopus. After refining the results, removing repeated records, screening bibliographical information and examining full texts, 30 Chinese-language journal articles were retained. Four intersecting strands emerged: chronological, institutional and typological studies; work on vernacular and regional traditions; accounts of modernisation and social change; and research based on museum objects or collection documentation. Across these strands, adult dress categories are often transferred to children’s garments, while motifs and symbolic meanings receive more attention than construction. Variable terminology, uncertain dating at the level of individual objects and incomplete visual or collection records further impede comparison. The proposed procedure responds by coding constructional details visible in an image and recording the legibility of each structural area. Visual description is kept separate from information supplied by catalogues or institutional records and from historically qualified interpretation. The findings support an understanding of late Qing children’s dress as a material field related to age, bodily care, domestic practice and cultural expectation. Applied within the limits of each source, the framework enables more transparent comparison of dispersed visual evidence without treating inference as observation.
Downloads
References
Bao, M. X. (Ed.). (2006). Jindai Zhongguo tongzhuang shilu [A visual record of modern Chinese children’s dress]. Donghua University Press.
Cui, L. Y., & Chen, L. (2025). Fushi fuhao yu shijue xushi: Beijing Gugong Qingdai Ding Guanpeng Da Nuo Tu ertong tuxiang yanjiu [Dress symbols and visual narrative: Children’s imagery in Ding Guanpeng’s Qing dynasty Da Nuo Tu in the Palace Museum, Beijing]. Mingzuo Xinshang [Masterpieces Review], (32), 83–85. https://doi.org/10.20273/j.cnki.mzxs.2025.32.030
Deng, H. J. (2019). Jindai minjian ertong dudou xingzhi, gongneng ji qi dui xiandai tongzhuang sheji de yingxiang [Forms and functions of modern folk children’s dudou and their influence on contemporary childrenswear design]. Cangzhou Shifan Xueyuan Xuebao [Journal of Cangzhou Normal University], 35(4), 99–102. https://doi.org/10.13834/j.cnki.czsfxyxb.2019.04.024
Deng, H. J. (2020). Jindai Wanbei minjian ertong fushipin zhong hu wenyang de sheji yingyong [Design applications of tiger motifs in modern folk children’s dress accessories from northern Anhui]. Wuhan Fangzhi Daxue Xuebao [Journal of Wuhan Textile University], 33(3), 51–55.
Finnane, A. (2008). Changing clothes in China: Fashion, history, nation. Columbia University Press.
Furth, C. (1987). Concepts of pregnancy, childbirth, and infancy in Ch’ing dynasty China. The Journal of Asian Studies, 46(1), 7–35. https://doi.org/10.2307/2056664
Harrison, H. (2000). The making of the Republican citizen: Political ceremonies and symbols in China, 1911–1929. Oxford University Press.
He, B. L. (2016a). Jindai Hanzu minjian tongzhuang shiyong gongneng yu wenhua yuyi yanjiu [Practical functions and cultural meanings of modern Han folk children’s dress]. Shandong Fangzhi Jingji [Shandong Textile Economy], (6), 14–16, 51. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1673-0968.2016.06.004
He, B. L. (2016b). Jindai tongzhuang zhuangshi jiyi ji qi zai dangdai chengyi shichang zhong de yunyong [Decorative techniques of modern children’s dress and their application in the contemporary ready-to-wear market]. Dazhong Wenyi [Popular Literature and Art], (9), 89–90. https://doi.org/10.20112/j.cnki.issn1007-5828.2016.09.088
He, B. L. (2017). Jindai Hanzu tongzhuang de xiandai sheji diaoyan fenxi [A survey and analysis of contemporary design based on modern Han children’s dress]. Mingri Fengshang [Tomorrow’s Fashion], (18), 378–379.
He, B. L., & Cui, R. R. (2014). Jindai Hanzu minjian tongzhuang zhong dongwu xingtai de yishu tese yanjiu ji xiandai chuangxin [Artistic characteristics of animal forms in modern Han folk children’s dress and contemporary innovation]. Fushi Daokan [Fashion Guide], 3(1), 49–54. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.2095-4131.2014.01.009
He, Q. M., & He, Y. (2019). Wan Qing Minguo ertong weixian zaoxing yishu yanjiu [A study of the forms of children’s bibs in the late Qing and Republican periods]. Sheji [Design], 32(3), 88–90. https://doi.org/10.20055/j.cnki.1003-0069.2019.03.031
Hsiung, P.-C. (2005). A tender voyage: Children and childhood in late imperial China. Stanford University Press.
Kong, L. Q., Wang, L., & Li, F. G. (2024). Jindai Zhongyuan minjian tongzhuang tu’an zhong de yangmeng jiyin yu chuangxin sheji [Educational meanings and innovative design in the patterns of modern Central Plains folk children’s dress]. Fangzhi Keji Jinzhan [Progress in Textile Science and Technology], 46(7), 35–41. https://doi.org/10.19507/j.cnki.1673-0356.2024.07.011
Krippendorff, K. (2018). Content analysis: An introduction to its methodology (4th ed.). SAGE Publications.
Küchler, S., & Miller, D. (Eds.). (2005). Clothing as material culture. Berg.
Li, Q. (2020). Zhongyuan chuantong ertong fushi tujian (er) [An illustrated guide to traditional children’s dress from the Central Plains, Part 2]. Fushi Daokan [Fashion Guide], 9(1), 85–90. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.2095-4131.2020.01.014
Li, Y. (2014). Jindai ertong weixian yanjiu [A study of children’s bibs in modern China]. Sichou [Journal of Silk], 51(4), 63–69. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2014.04.014
Liang, H. E., & Ren, B. B. (2020). Jindai Wanbei diqu ertong xiemao de shenmei tezheng yu minsu jiedu [Aesthetic characteristics and folk interpretations of children’s shoes and hats from modern northern Anhui]. Sichou [Journal of Silk], 57(3), 77–83. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2020.03.013
Liu, C. (2024). Chuantong tongmao zhong “long” tushi de lishi wenhua diyun [Historical and cultural meanings of dragon imagery in traditional children’s hats]. Yishu yu Sheji (Lilun) [Art and Design (Theory)], 2(12), 102–105. https://doi.org/10.16824/j.cnki.issn10082832.2024.12.024
Liu, H., Lü, G. Y., & Wang, K. (2023). Jindai Zhongguo tonggua ji tongkanjian kuanshi sheji de bianqian [Changes in the styles of children’s jackets and waistcoats in modern China]. Zhongyuan Gong Xueyuan Xuebao [Journal of Zhongyuan University of Technology], 34(5), 1–6. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1671-6906.2023.05.001
Lu, J., & Cui, R. R. (2015). Jindai Hanzu minjian tongmao xingzhi ji zaowu sixiang yanjiu [Forms and design concepts of modern Han folk children’s hats]. Wuhan Fangzhi Daxue Xuebao [Journal of Wuhan Textile University], 28(1), 40–43. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.2095-414X.2015.01.010
Lu, J., Cui, R. R., & Niu, L. (2018). Jindai Hanzu minjian tongmao de zaowu gongneng ji qinggan yuyan [Practical functions and emotional language of modern Han folk children’s hats]. Zhejiang Fangzhi Fuzhuang Zhiye Jishu Xueyuan Xuebao [Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology], 17(2), 39–42, 76. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1674-2346.2018.02.008
Lu, J., Niu, L., & Cui, R. R. (2016). Jindai Hanzu minjian tongmao de zhuangshi yuansu [Decorative elements of modern Han folk children’s hats]. Fangzhi Xuebao [Journal of Textile Research], 37(4), 119–123. https://doi.org/10.13475/j.fzxb.20150104705
Luo, R. (2013). Qingmo tongzhuang mianliao wenyang ticai ji qi yingyong [Themes and applications of textile patterns in late Qing children’s clothing]. Xiandai Zhuangshi (Lilun) [Modern Decoration (Theory)], (10), 33.
Riello, G. (2011). The object of fashion: Methodological approaches to the history of fashion. Journal of Aesthetics & Culture, 3(1), Article 8865. https://doi.org/10.3402/jac.v3i0.8865
Rose, G. (2022). Visual methodologies: An introduction to researching with visual materials (5th ed.). SAGE Publications.
Rowe, W. T. (2009). China’s last empire: The Great Qing. The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press.
Schreier, M. (2012). Qualitative content analysis in practice. SAGE Publications.
Shen, C. W. (1981). Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Research on ancient Chinese dress]. The Commercial Press.
Silberstein, R. (2020). A fashionable century: Textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing. University of Washington Press.
Steele, V., & Major, J. S. (1999). China chic: East meets West. Yale University Press.
Tang, Y., & Zhang, Y. (2020). Jindai ertong dudou tu’an de fuhaoxue jiedu [A semiotic interpretation of patterns on modern children’s dudou]. Sheji Yishu Yanjiu [Design Research], 10(1), 81–85. https://doi.org/10.3963/j.issn.2095-0705.2020.01.018
Taylor, L. (2002). The study of dress history. Manchester University Press.
Torraco, R. J. (2005). Writing integrative literature reviews: Guidelines and examples. Human Resource Development Review, 4(3), 356–367. https://doi.org/10.1177/1534484305278283
Vollmer, J. E. (2002). Ruling from the dragon throne: Costume of the Qing dynasty (1644–1911). Ten Speed Press.
Wang, F. W. (2025a). Jiyu banpian chaijie yu gongyi canshuhua de Qingdai hutoumao feiyi shuzihua fuyuan yanjiu [Digital reconstruction of a Qing dynasty tiger head hat through garment component analysis and process parameterisation]. Jisuanji Shidai [Computer Era], (10), 51–55, 60. https://doi.org/10.16644/j.cnki.cn33-1094/tp.2025.10.009
Wang, F. W. (2025b). Jiyu dichengben gaojingdu jishu de feiyi Qingdai hutoumao shuzihua jianmo fangfa yanjiu [A low cost, high precision method for digitally modelling a Qing dynasty tiger head hat]. Jisuanji Shidai [Computer Era], (9), 50–54. https://doi.org/10.16644/j.cnki.cn33-1094/tp.2025.09.010
Wang, F. W. (2026). Feiyi Qingdai hutoumao shuzi dongtai huanyuan jishu yanjiu [Digital dynamic reconstruction of a Qing dynasty tiger head hat]. Xinxi Jishu yu Xinxihua [Information Technology and Informatization], (3), 67–70. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1672-9528.2026.03.017
Wang, J. H. (2017). Zhongguo chuantong fushi: Ertong fuzhuang [Traditional Chinese dress: Children’s clothing]. China Textile & Apparel Press.
Wang, Y., Hou, D. Y., & Zhao, B. (2023). Guancang jindai tongzhuang de fenxi jianding ji fushi jiegou yanjiu [Technical identification and structural analysis of a museum held modern children’s garment]. Hebei Gongye Keji [Hebei Journal of Industrial Science and Technology], 40(2), 117–123. https://doi.org/10.7535/hbgykj.2023yx02006
Wang, Y. F., & Li, Y. F. (2024). Qingdai Jinshi tongmao zaoxing yishu yanjiu [A study of the forms of Jin style children’s hats in the Qing dynasty]. Fuzhuang Shejishi [Fashion Designer], (Z1), 42–46. https://doi.org/10.20100/j.cnki.cn11-4548/ts.2024.z1.007
Wang, Y. Y., & Li, X. H. (2022). Jindai ertong dudou tu’an de yishu yanjiu ji xiandai chuangxin sheji [Artistic study and contemporary design innovation of patterns on modern children’s dudou]. Meishu Jiaoyu Yanjiu [Art Education Research], (10), 85–87. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1674-9286.2022.10.038
Whittemore, R., & Knafl, K. (2005). The integrative review: Updated methodology. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 52(5), 546–553. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2648.2005.03621.x
Wilson, V. (2005). Chinese textiles. V&A Publications.
Wu, Z. Y., & Hou, D. Y. (2025). Qingdai Shengping Leshi Tu zhong ertong fushi de yanjiu [Children’s dress in the Qing dynasty painting Shengping Leshi Tu]. Xibu Pige [West Leather], 47(17), 146–148. https://doi.org/10.20143/j.1671-1602.2025.17.146
Xu, C. M. (2018). Jindai ertong weixian de yishu tezheng ji minsu neihan [Artistic characteristics and folk meanings of children’s bibs in modern China]. Fuzhuang Xuebao [Journal of Clothing Research], 3(1), 67–72. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1671-7147.2018.01.012
Xu, W. N. (2012). Ciqi yingxitu lidai fushi tezheng [Dress characteristics in ceramic images of children at play across historical periods]. Wenwu Jianding yu Jianshang [Identification and Appreciation to Cultural Relics], (6), 10–17. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1674-8697.2012.06.001
Yu, Q. H. (2017). Meiguo Wusite Yishu Bowuguan cang Qingdai hongdi xiuhua hutoumao shangxi [A Qing dynasty red embroidered tiger head hat in the Worcester Art Museum]. Shoucangjia [Collectors], (8), 76–80.
Zhang, J. Q., & Sun, N. N. (2008). Jindai tongzhuang zhong cixiu wenshi de xiangzhengxing yu secai de zhuangshixing [The symbolism of embroidered motifs and the decorative use of colour in modern children’s clothing]. Sichou [Journal of Silk], (7), 60–62. https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2008.07.020
Zhou, X., & Gao, C. M. (1984). Zhongguo fushi wuqian nian [Five thousand years of Chinese dress]. The Commercial Press; Xuelin Press.
